Glue-down PVC is bonded directly to the prepared subfloor. It is thin, generally has low thermal resistance, and creates a solid floor finish. Click PVC is usually installed as a floating floor, is often faster to install, and some systems can accommodate minor irregularities in the subfloor. However, a rigid underlay or a thicker panel does not automatically make a poor base suitable.
Which floor is more suitable depends primarily on the subfloor, the presence of underfloor heating, and any requirements regarding impact sound. The usage class, installation height, and total installation costs are also factors.
In this PVC flooring guide, we compare the different systems, discuss their pros and cons, and explain which technical errors can later lead to open seams, loose planks, or noise issues.
What is a PVC floor?
A PVC floor typically consists of multiple layers. Above the printed decorative layer is a transparent wear layer that protects the pattern from wear and tear. The composition of the underlying layers varies by product.
Within this group, three types are widely used: glue-down PVC, flexible click PVC, and rigid core PVC. They may look almost identical, but they react differently to the subfloor and the installation method.
Glue-down PVC, flexible click PVC, and rigid core
Glue-down PVC, also dryback PVC , consists of relatively thin planks or tiles. Many products are approximately 2 to 3 mm thick and are attached to the subfloor using a suitable adhesive.
Flexible click PVC features a mechanical click system and is installed as a floating floor. The panel is thicker than many glue-down variants and is combined with a suitable underlay, unless the manufacturer specifies otherwise.
Rigid core PVC, which includes many SPC products, has a stiffer core. SPC stands for stone plastic composite and typically contains plastic and mineral fillers.
Due to the stiffer construction, some rigid core systems can better bridge minor irregularities. However, maximum deviations for subfloor flatness still apply here as well. The permitted values can be found in the installation instructions for the specific product.

Glue-down PVC vs. click PVC: the main differences
The difference between glue-down and click determines more than just how the floor is installed. It also influences the total floor structure, heat transfer, maintenance options, and installation costs.
The comparison below shows the most important characteristics. Final performance remains dependent on the chosen product and the subfloor.

A floating click system typically requires expansion gaps along walls and fixed structures. With glued-down PVC, proper adhesion and subfloor preparation are the deciding factors.
When should you choose glue-down PVC?
A glue-down PVC floor is an attractive option when the installation height must be kept to a minimum, the subfloor can be properly prepared, or low thermal resistance is required.
Because the planks are fully bonded, the result is a solid floor finish. There is no separate floating layer that can shift under load.
The quality of the subfloor is crucial here. Even minor unevenness can show through the thin material. Insufficient dryness or a weak top layer can also compromise adhesion.
Glue-down PVC therefore often requires leveling work and professional installation. A damaged plank can sometimes be replaced locally, but removing the floor without damaging the subfloor is not always easy.
When should you choose click PVC?
A click PVC floor is especially practical when you prefer a floating installation and want to install the floor relatively quickly.
With some systems, DIY installation is quite feasible. However, the subfloor must be sufficiently level and stable to prevent overloading the click joints.
If panels flex while walking, the joints can become damaged. This can lead to creaking noises or gaps opening up over time.
Sufficient expansion space must be maintained along walls, door frames, and other fixed elements. For large or continuous surfaces, transition or expansion profiles may also be necessary.
These principles are similar to those for laminate. In the article about installing laminate and choosing the right underlay you can read more about the importance of a stable base and the correct expansion space.

Pros and cons of PVC flooring
The main advantages of PVC flooring are its ease of maintenance, the variety of designs available, and the moisture resistance of the material itself. A high-quality wear layer makes it suitable for intensive daily use.
However, PVC also has its limitations. The floor can be damaged by sharp objects, point loading, and extreme temperatures. Furthermore, issues with the subfloor can lead to damage that is not easily repaired.
Durable, but not scratch-resistant
PVC typically features a protective wear layer, but it is not completely resistant to scratches or dents.
Sand under shoes acts as an abrasive. Narrow furniture legs can cause localized indentations, especially when heavy weight rests on a small surface area for an extended period.
Therefore, use suitable furniture glides and remove dirt regularly.
Unlike many wood floors, PVC cannot be sanded down to refinish a worn decor or wear layer. The possibilities for local repair depend on the nature of the damage and the type of flooring.
Water-resistant is not the same as waterproof
PVC generally absorbs very little moisture. This makes it suitable for rooms where water is occasionally spilled.
However, water-resistant PVC does not mean the entire floor construction is waterproof.
With a floating floor, water can seep under the panels through seams and edges, where it can damage the subfloor.
With glued-down PVC, prolonged exposure to moisture can cause adhesion problems, depending on the materials used and the floor structure.
A standard PVC floor is therefore not an automatic substitute for a waterproof system in a shower area. When using it in a bathroom, check whether both the product and the installation method are approved for such use.
Temperature, discoloration, and deformation
PVC reacts to temperature changes. The floor surface can heat up significantly in localized areas, especially under strong direct sunlight.
If a floating floor does not have enough room to expand, tension can build up. This can cause panels to lift or damage the joints.
Discoloration due to prolonged exposure to sunlight is also possible with certain products.
Permissible temperatures vary by manufacturer. Therefore, do not use a general limit for every PVC product; instead, check the technical documentation for your chosen floor.

Choosing quality: wear layer and usage class
The total thickness of a PVC plank does not automatically indicate its wear resistance. For example, a thick rigid core plank may have a thinner wear layer than a much thinner glue-down product.
When assessing quality, both the protective layer and the official usage class are therefore relevant.
What wear layer thickness do you need?
The wear layer of a PVC floor is typically expressed in millimeters.
Various product lines feature thicknesses ranging from 0.20 to 0.30 mm for residential applications. For heavier use, products with a wear layer of 0.40 or 0.55 mm are available.
These values are useful points of comparison, but they are not a universal guarantee of a specific lifespan.
The composition and surface treatment also influence wear resistance. Therefore, always check the specified usage class and the warranty terms.
Usage class according to EN ISO 10874
The usage class indicates the type of load for which a floor covering is intended.
Classes 21 through 23 relate to residential use, ranging from light to heavy. Classes 31 through 34 are intended for various levels of commercial use.
For a busy living room, hallway, or other high-traffic residential area, usage class 23 is a logical choice.
Some PVC products also have a commercial classification, such as class 32 or 33.
Do not choose based solely on a thick wear layer. The product classification provides a better starting point for assessing whether the floor is suitable for the room in question.
PVC in an apartment: the 10 dB requirement
In apartments, impact sound is an important consideration. This refers to vibrations caused by things like footsteps or moving furniture, which are transmitted to another home through the floor structure.
Many homeowners' associations have rules regarding hard flooring. These requirements are set out in the applicable deed of division or other valid regulations.

What do ΔLlin and ΔLw mean?
In Dutch apartments, an improvement in impact sound insulation of 10 dB ΔLlin is often required.
However, underlay packaging often also displays the European value ΔLw. These values are not directly interchangeable.
The Dutch Foundation for Noise Abatement (Nederlandse Stichting Geluidshinder) indicates that for an improvement of 10 dB ΔLlin, the ΔLw value must be at least 20 dB.
Conversely, a stated ΔLw of 20 dB does not automatically mean that the product meets a 10 dB ΔLlin requirement.
Therefore, check the measurement method and the certificate, not just the number on the packaging.
Which underlay is permitted?
The right acoustic solution depends on the type of floor construction.
A product that performs well on a concrete test floor will not necessarily deliver the same results on a wooden floor or an existing floating screed.
Especially in apartments with a resiliently mounted screed, it is important to prevent an additional underlay from causing unfavorable resonance.
Before purchasing, check:
- What noise requirement the homeowners' association actually sets.
- Whether the stated value refers to ΔLlin or ΔLw.
- Which combination of PVC and underlay the test result applies to.
- On what type of floor construction the measurement was performed.
Glue-down PVC is not generally prohibited in apartments. Nor does every click-PVC product with a so-called 10 dB underlay automatically meet the requirements.
The complete floor assembly must be suitable for the home and the applicable regulations.
PVC on underfloor heating
PVC with underfloor heating is possible for both glued and floating systems. The most important conditions are the thermal resistance of the floor assembly and the maximum permitted surface temperature.
A thin, direct-glued PVC floor often has favorable heat transfer. For click PVC, the potential underlay must also be taken into account.

Thermal resistance and temperature
Thermal resistance is expressed in m²K/W. The higher this value, the more resistance the floor structure offers to heat transfer.
For the combination of certain Quick-Step PVC systems with underfloor heating, for example, a maximum total thermal resistance of 0.15 m²K/W applies.
That is a useful reference point, but suitability must always be checked against the documentation for the specific floor.
For PVC systems, maximum surface temperatures of around 27 to 28 °C are often prescribed. The exact value varies by product.
Local heating from sunlight must also be taken into account near large windows.
Start-up protocol after installation
A floor with underfloor heating should not simply be heated to the maximum immediately after installation.
The prescribed waiting time and start-up method depend on the floor type, any leveling layer, the adhesive, and the heating system.
Some manufacturers require the heating to be switched off temporarily before installation and only started up gradually after a certain waiting period.
Therefore, follow the heating and cooling protocol of the relevant manufacturers. A universal waiting time of 24 or 48 hours is not correct for every system.
Temperature changes that are too rapid can cause stress in the material or negatively affect the adhesion of glued PVC.
You can find more information about systems and technical possibilities in the Bricknest guide to underfloor heating.
Preparation and installation of PVC
The quality of the subfloor largely determines the final result. Even an expensive PVC product can develop problems when laid on a damp, insufficiently level, or unstable base.
That is why installing a PVC floor begins with a technical inspection of the existing floor.

Checking the subfloor
The subfloor must be level, dry, clean, and sufficiently load-bearing.
For cement or anhydrite screeds, the residual moisture content must be within the limits of the chosen flooring system. Permissible values may differ when underfloor heating is present.
A wooden floor must be sufficiently rigid. Loose or sagging boards must be repaired before installing a new floor structure.
Before installation, always check the following:
- The existing floor structure is sufficiently stable and contains no loose components.
- The permissible flatness tolerances for the PVC product are not exceeded.
- The residual moisture content has been measured and assessed where necessary.
- The subfloor is clean and free of substances that could impair adhesion.
- Any primer, leveling compound, adhesive, and underlay are mutually compatible.
A thin PVC plank can make minor irregularities visible. With click PVC, height differences can cause additional stress on the joints.
You can read about which preparation is suitable for different subfloors in the explanation on leveling concrete and wooden floors.
Acclimatization and processing temperature
PVC and installation materials must be given sufficient time to adapt to the conditions in the room before installation.
For various LVT adhesive systems, Forbo Eurocol recommends an acclimatization period of at least 24 hours, with specific requirements for temperature and relative humidity.
This is not a universal timeframe for all PVC floors. Follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer of the chosen product.
A cold floor installed immediately after transport may change dimensions as it warms up. For glued PVC, the application and curing of the adhesive can also be affected.
Therefore, check the temperature of the subfloor as well, not just the air temperature.
Installing glue-down PVC
For glue-down PVC, the subfloor is prepared first. Depending on the situation, repairs, primer, and a leveling layer may be required.
Afterward, the appropriate adhesive is applied according to the specified consumption rate and processing time.
The PVC planks are precisely positioned and pressed or rolled using the prescribed tools.
If the adhesive has dried too much or the subfloor does not provide sufficient adhesion, loose sections or open seams may occur later.
Installing click PVC
For a floating system, the panels are installed according to the prescribed click method.
Expansion gaps along walls and fixed structures must remain clear. Heavy built-in elements must also not pin down a floating floor if the manufacturer prohibits it.
Transition profiles may be required for large areas or adjacent rooms with different temperatures.
Check the maximum continuous installation dimensions in the manual for your chosen product.
Straight planks or herringbone?
The installation pattern affects the amount of cutting required and the assembly time.
A straight plank pattern is generally easier to lay out and results in less material waste in many rooms.
Herringbone PVC requires more precise measurements. With click herringbone, specific left and right panels may be required, depending on the system.
With glued herringbone, deviations in direction or dimensions are particularly noticeable. A level subfloor and a carefully measured starting point are therefore essential.

How much does a PVC floor cost in 2026?
The PVC floor costs consist of more than just the price of the planks or panels.
According to Dutch price guides, indicative total prices for PVC, including materials and installation, are often around €45 to €110 per m² in 2026. There is a wide range because not every price includes the same scope of work.
For leveling a standard subfloor, amounts of approximately €10 to €25 per m² are also often cited. Costs may be higher for extensive repairs or complex wooden floor constructions.
These amounts are market indicators, not fixed rates from Bricknest.
What costs are included in the quote?
A proper price comparison distinguishes between:
- Materials: the chosen PVC product, the required quantity, and cutting waste.
- Preparation: removal of old flooring, repairs, and leveling.
- Auxiliary materials: primer, adhesive, underlay, and any additional supplies.
- Installation: assembly according to the chosen pattern, including necessary cutting.
- Finishing: baseboards, transition profiles, threshold connections, and other details.
- Additional work: for example, adjusting doors or repairing existing structures.
Always ask which items are included in the quoted price per square meter.
A price of €60 per m² excluding leveling may ultimately turn out higher than a quote of €75 per m² that does include that preparation.
Is glue-down PVC cheaper than click PVC?
That depends on the total floor structure.
Glue-down PVC can be relatively inexpensive to purchase, but often requires more extensive preparation and professional installation.
Click PVC can be installed faster, although the panels and the required underlay can be more expensive.
The condition of the existing floor is also a deciding factor. A subfloor that still needs to be leveled can significantly change the difference between two quotes.
Therefore, compare the total costs of a ready-to-use PVC floor, not just the material price.
Maintaining PVC floors
PVC is generally low-maintenance. Regular vacuuming or sweeping removes sand and dirt that can cause scratches.
When mopping, use a cleaning agent suitable for the specific product's finish. Harsh chemicals, abrasive products, and unapproved maintenance coatings can damage the surface treatment.
A good doormat at the entrance reduces the amount of dirt on the floor. Furniture glides help minimize scratches and localized indentations.
Clean up spills promptly, even if the PVC itself is water-resistant. This prevents moisture from sitting in the seams and edges for long periods.
Frequently asked questions about PVC floors
When choosing a PVC floor, questions often arise regarding existing tiles, health aspects, and comparisons with laminate.
Can I install PVC over existing tiles?
You can, provided the tiled floor is solid, sufficiently level, and suitable for the chosen installation method.
For glue-down PVC, joints and height differences usually need to be leveled. Even with click PVC, deep joints or localized unevenness can exceed the permitted tolerances.
Therefore, check the subfloor first. A tiled floor that looks neat is not automatically level enough.
Is a PVC floor healthy?
PVC products can vary in composition and emissions. Some contain plasticizers and other additives that are subject to European regulations.
Check the available product information regarding composition and indoor air emissions. Where possible, choose products with demonstrably low emissions and use a suitable low-emission adhesive for installation.
A temporary odor after installation does not automatically mean the floor is hazardous, but it is also not a reliable measure of the amount of substances being emitted.
Ventilate during and after the work according to the instructions provided with the products used.
Why do open seams occur with click PVC?
Open seams can have various causes. Consider an uneven subfloor, incorrectly connected panels, an unsuitable underlay, or thermal stress.
If a click connection continues to move under load, the damage may return if only the visible seam is repaired.
Therefore, investigate the cause before reconnecting or replacing the panels.
Which is better: LVT or laminate?
LVT generally has an advantage when it comes to incidental moisture exposure, as the material itself absorbs very little water.
Laminate usually has a wood-fiber core, but even within that product category, there are differences in moisture resistance, wear resistance, and installation.
Both materials can be suitable for underfloor heating. The thermal resistance of the total assembly determines how well heat is conducted.
Therefore, LVT is not automatically better than laminate in every situation. You can read more about this in our comparison of LVT and laminate: costs and practical differences.
Glue-down LVT or click LVT: which floor should you choose?
Glue-down LVT is often a good choice when a low installation height and favorable heat transfer are important, and the subfloor can be professionally prepared.
Click LVT offers advantages when a floating installation is desired or if you want to be able to remove the floor more easily. In this case, too, the base must be sufficiently level and stable.
In apartments, the construction of the existing floor and the regulations regarding impact sound are often decisive. For underfloor heating, the thermal resistance and temperature limits must be checked in particular.
The best choice is therefore not the thickest or most expensive LVT floor, but the system that technically suits the home and its usage.
At Bricknest, floor selection, subfloor, and execution are assessed as interconnected parts of a renovation. Would you like to know which solution is suitable for your home? Via the Bricknest contact page you can request a free online consultation and discuss the possibilities for your renovation.
